Back to top
Back to journey

A Cheeky Forty-Eight Kilometres

A cheeky 48.5 kilometres counted as a shorter day by this point. My feet were tired, the Hokas were worn and the campervan evening revolved around laundry and a gloriously mixed dinner.

Gary's shoes and feet during the Day 52 foot-care update
The feet were a project by then: shoes, socks, balms, creams, tape, self-massage, and a lot of listening.

By Day 52, my sense of distance had become badly warped.

After three 55 km days in a row, I was almost disappointed to finish with 48.5 km. That is a ridiculous sentence, but that was the shape of daily life by then. We were pushing hard toward Port Augusta and Adelaide, and 55 km had started to feel like the standard.

The day started beautifully enough: cold South Australian dawn, trees in silhouette, silos, and a distance sign with Wudinna, Kyancutta, and Port Augusta stacked up in front of me. The pipeline was still there for parts of the day, another practical line through the landscape.

A large part of the day was really about feet, shoes, and the amount of quiet maintenance needed to keep walking. With more than 2100 km already behind us, and three pairs of Hoka Stinson Lites on daily rotation, that meant an average of more than 700 km per pair. They were carrying about 115 kg of me, plus backpack and gear, over dirt track, pea gravel, bitumen, coarse gravel, uneven shoulders and plenty of angled surfaces.

The routine had become very deliberate: mostly walking, with occasional running when it felt sensible. The goal was not speed. It was minimising impact, maximising recovery, and making sure the finish line was eventually crossed.

For all that, the body was holding together better than I had any right to expect. My legs were unbelievably okay. My back had been mostly trouble-free, apart from one tiny twinge when South Australia first started rolling underfoot. My feet were the real project. The massage at Southern Cross had taught me that feet have muscles, knots and trigger points too, and by Kalgoorlie those evening old-man hobbles had started to disappear.

That did not mean pain-free. It meant managed. Rest breaks, mornings, and evenings all involved balms, gels, creams, lubrication between toes, self-massage, checking sore spots, and trying to stay ahead of problems before they became trip-ending ones. The soles had toughened. The toes and calloused edges still complained. Somehow, with the HOKAs, Lightfeet socks, and obsessive foot care, I had only had one tiny blister so far, caused by leaving damp socks on after rain.

I was already looking forward to fresh Hokas in Adelaide. I called it the marshmallow feeling.

The walking itself came in three sessions: 15.1 km, 15.5 km, then 17.9 km. The plan behind the longer third session was sensible. If I kept going, the guys could get ahead, book us into Gawler Ranges Caravan Park, and make an early start on laundry and the usual end-of-day chores. It was a good plan until I started to feel it at about 15 km, and the final couple of kilometres became a real struggle.

So we called it. No fourth consecutive 55 km day. Just a cheeky 48.5 km or thereabouts.

That night we were at Gawler Ranges Caravan Park, Wudinna. Dinner was bangers, cheesy mash, and spaghetti in tomato sauce. Five-star catering in the HAA camper, obviously.

Images From The Day

Cold dawn light through roadside trees on Day 52
Another cold South Australian start, with the day opening through trees and dawn light.
Distance sign listing Wudinna, Kyancutta, Lock, Port Lincoln, and Port Augusta
Wudinna, Kyancutta, Port Augusta: the next line of names in front of us.
Pipeline and track beside the Eyre Highway on Day 52
The pipeline and track were still there in places, giving the day a familiar practical edge.
Edward John Eyre monument near Wudinna on Day 52
The Edward John Eyre monument near Wudinna, another marker of the older crossing stories wrapped around this route.
Old rusted car beside trees near the Day 52 route
A rusted old car beside the route, one more odd detail from the day.
Worn Hoka shoe sole during the Day 52 foot-care update
Three pairs of Hoka Stinson Lites were doing serious work by this point.
Wudinna and Australian Farmer sign near the Day 52 finish
Being welcomed to Wudinna.
Gary inside after the Day 52 walk
The face of a man who had just had to settle for a short day of 48.5 kilometres.

View the full day gallery